Monday 31 March 2014

Chicken, prawn or ... steak?

We have eaten some great meals recently and thought that we would share some of them with you. As we have said before, we live just around the corner from a bustling farmers' market. This means that we have had access to awesome, fresh and delicious fruit and veg. The prawns are also amazing!

A few nights ago we decided to make a prawn salad, because we were getting a little bored of baguette and noodle based meals. Plus its super hot and sticky here, so a salad is a nice, light meal. The salad consisted purely of produce acquired from the market (with the exception of the make-do salad dressing) and tasted incredible. In it, we put lettuce, cucumber, carrot, sprouts, paw-paw, green and red peppers, avo, pan-roasted peanuts and prawns. The sauce was a mixture of mayo, chilli sauce, salt and pepper.


Before the sauce - yummy.

With the sauce - delicious!

There is a pub and grill close to Mel's work, called The Tavern. We have been there once before for lunch and were certainly not disappointed. They run a different lunch special everyday, so on Monday we decided to see what hey had on offer. We made the short trip (with our awesome, shnazzy new helmets) and were quite excited to treat ourselves to a lunch date. The special exceeded our expectations - Yogurt chicken breasts grilled with red pepper and pineapple salsa, served with a fresh salad and french fries (which, by the way, we have been CRAVING like something illegal!). The meal was very tasty, but was oddly a little dry. We felt that a dollop of yogurt over the chicken and salsa would've finished it off beautifully.



While tucking into or lunch time treat, Mel discovered the biggest chip we have seen on her plate. We just had to stop eating and take a photo - it was that impressive!

The biggest chip EVER!!

On Wednesday we were feeling lazy (it must be the heat! Or maybe the late nights?). Anyway, we convinced ourselves that we haven't explored our surrounding neighbourhood enough, and in particular the various small restaurants. So we googled places to eat in our area and found an interesting one which had received great reviews. So we drove slowly down the road trying to find the place. This is not as easy as it sounds, most of the signs look similar (especially because they are similar colours, and because we can't read what they say!) and there are millions of other people on the road who don't understand why you would be driving slowly on their road. This resulted in us being hooted at by various motorists, in a variety of vehicles, and being passed by not one, but two teenagers on bicycles! We couldn't find the place, and as you can imagine, blood pressures were on the rise. Suddenly we spotted (only just I might add) an interesting looking place that was largely tucked away behind bushes and a row of parked scooters. Ross was too slow to react and drove past it - fail! But that's OK - we have been here long enough to know that there is no need to do a big loop down the one way road, in the crazy traffic, to get to a place that you have driven past. Instead, he did what any local would have done. He mounted the pavement and drove back along it, to the restaurant.

We walked in and soon felt very much under dressed. The waiters looked extremely smart, wearing their white button up shirts and black waist-coats. Most of the patrons in the restaurant were wearing collared shirts and long pants. Then in strolls Ross wearing shorts, a superman shirt and slip slops. So that's what it feels like to turn heads...

Anyway, we were seated in their beautiful, garden style restaurant, close to a mist spraying fan, and handed a menu. The menu was of course in Vietnamese and we could not read a word. Until... we spotted a familiar word - 'Beefsteak' - written just like that, one word. Our excitement levels began to grow, especially when we saw the price - 45, 000 VND (+ R23) each. We ordered two, along with two iced coffees and waited in anticipation to see what we would receive. We were stoked with the outcome - a steak (OK, a minute steak, but what did you expect?), salad and chips. It also came with a tasty soy sauce and fresh chilli dipping sauce.

Complimentary mugs of water. 


Very smartly dressed waiters.

Weird fruit in the trees

The beautiful tree top canopy that provided shade

Amazing iced coffee


Our steak, salad, fries and soy sauce with chilli

A very happy Ross

Snow white in the garden


These two lille birdies lived a little lavishly this week, taking ourselves out for TWO lunch dates! (Mom, if you are reading this, we might need some money in the next few days! Tricking)

Thursday 27 March 2014

We got NEW helmets.

The scooter that we are renting came with two manky helmets, so we decided to buy two more shiny ones...

Andes Helmets are better quality than the average in Vietnam.

The selection.

How does this one look?

I like this one...


And here are some bonus market photos.

A bunch of frogs anybody?

Not so nice for the chickens to be kept in a cage next to the dead one!

Monday 24 March 2014

Teaching in Vietnam

So we've been here for a little over month, doing our thing. But what exactly is that? This post is a bit of insight into what it is that we actually do to earn some moola over here.

Firstly, for most of you out there who don't know anything about teaching English abroad, you get two kinds of teaching positions. There are posts at schools (public or private), and there are posts at language centres (all private). The 'school teacher' posts are at regular schools with regular working hours (07:40 - 16:30, Monday - Friday). Here, you may not even teach English as a subject, but rather another subject (like Science), but your lessons are in english. You are a teacher by the common definition, which we all love and know from our own, fond (or not so fond) memories of our time at school. These schools are really cool, because you are guaranteed a set salary (you are at school for business hours, if you are not teaching - a 'free' - you are generally planning or marking), they offer certain stability (you know your hours and your classes are with the same children throughout your time there) and you have your weekends free. We, however, are not 'school teachers', and don't enjoy these privileges. But before you feel too sorry for us, check out what our 'language centre' posts entail.

Language centres are institutions that (duh) only teach a specific language. In most cases here in Ho Chi Minh, they teach English. Some language centres have contracts with public schools, and send teachers to these schools every week to teach an English class. Mel goes to two different public schools during the week with this kind of arrangement. This teaching can be quite difficult, because the classes are big (30+ students) and the resources are as good as non-existent. These lessons are all about pronunciation and talking, and the schools do not encourage games (only the greatest part of our new jobs!!), so the lessons are usually quite boring - for both the teacher and the students - and are difficult to get through - again, for both the teacher and the students. They follow the government curriculum, but the English teacher is mainly there for talking, not necessarily teaching language and rules. Another downside is that you have to travel to the schools to teach, and are not always compensated for your travel expenses. But the money per hour is pretty good, and makes this option a fairly attractive one.

The other option when teaching through a language centre, is teaching at their private campuses. These lessons generally take place in the evenings (usually teenagers and adults after school or work and until about 21:00 - 21:30) and on weekends (usually young children who are at school during the week). Because of the timing of these lessons, the focus is predominantly on fun. The students must want to go to English lessons, and learning must happen almost without them realising it.  These language centres can be very 'hit-and-miss'. In fact, out of the two that Mel works at, one is fantastic, while the other is disorganised and can be a very difficult institution to work for. We will focus on the positive, efficient one for the purpose of this post.

The language centres generally follow their preferred curriculums, and the resources are incredible! Every lesson is roughly planned for you (you just need to make it come alive with your personal teaching techniques), there are interactive activities built into the computer-based presentations (including sound clips, songs with lyrics and games) and  coloured, laminated flash cards are organised by book, unit and lesson. The classes are generally between 20 and 25 students, and all classrooms are fitted with an aircon and a fan. There is a teaching assistant (TA) in the class at all times for lessons with young learners - usually a Vietnamese student - and they help with group activities, discipline, translating (only if necessary) and general maintenance of the class behaviour. (There is no TA for teenager and adult classes.) You work in conjunction with a Vietnamese English teacher, who teaches most of the theory/language and grammar rules. The students have two lessons a week, one with the Vietnamese teacher, and one with you - the 'foreigner teacher'. These teachers also administer and mark most of the tests, and help to compile a report upon completion of the course.

Appearance is very important here in Vietnam, and you certainly have to look the part as a professional English teacher. Men are expected to wear a collared shirt and tie, dress pants and dress shoes. Ladies must have their shoulders and backs covered, have a high-cut collar, may wear dresses or skirts (which must fall below the knee), or pants (these cannot be three quarter length, but must cover to the ankle) and appropriate shoes (no slops).

As was mentioned earlier, you are paid per hour, so you ideally want as many hours as possible. However, when you first arrive, you (obviously) don't get designated many hours. Once you stick around for a while and prove yourself, more hours will hopefully be sent your way. Every now and then you are sent a message asking you to cover another teacher's lesson, and these are nice little bonus hours should you accept them.

So now you (hopefully) have an idea of how these two little birdies are earning their keep. Photos of our classes to follow soon.

Thursday 20 March 2014

Follow along

So a couple of people have mentioned that they've had trouble trying to follow our blog. For some reason signing up via email didn't work so the best way to be kept updated is by following our blog via Bloglovin. You will receive an email every time a new post goes up so you won't miss out on any of these little birdies adventures!

Here are the steps on how to sign up  for Bloglovin:

Step 1:



Step 2:
Click on sign-up


Step 3:
Sign-up either using your email address or your Facebook details. We used our email addresses.


Step 4:
Enter your details

 Step 5:
Once you have done this, Bloglovin will send you a confirmation email. Go to your inbox and click on the confirmation link.


Step 6:
You will be directed to Bloglovin. It might tell you to that you need to follow three blogs to continue. Ignore this as you do not need to follow any other blogs (unless you want to). Search for 'rossandmel' or 'The Goldstones'.


Step 7:
Two blogs will come up. Click on follow next to our blog.


Step 8:
Enjoy being updated right to your mailbox every time we upload a new post!






Tuesday 18 March 2014

Surviving Vietnam - Part 4 (Driving)

Life in Ho Chi Minh City is similar to that in most big cities (or so we assume, because neither of us really have any experience of living in a big city). Things are fast-paced, bigger, shinier, smellier and noisier than little old Howick, and it is fantastic. Maybe it's because its all so new and exciting or because we are in a foreign country. Either way, we have made it through our first month in Nam and are still glad to be here on this adventure. We continue to learn new things, and try to share little insights to help you to picture our experiences and imagine life here as a newbie expat.

Sooner or later you will need to be brave and become a member of the massive flocks of scooters on the terrifying roads of Saigon. What follows are some tips and guidelines. Firstly, there are no real rules to driving in Vietnam, except stay out of the way of any vehicle bigger than your own, as they have right of way by default. People ride their scooters on the wrong side of the street as often as they ride on the correct side, so it is imperative that you look in EVERY possibly direction when crossing the road or joining the traffic.

Helmets are compulsory (but not really for locals - especially children). There is a nifty manoeuvre when turning your scooter across traffic, we’ve called it shielding. It’s when you find other riders (or better yet, a car) that are also turning across the traffic. You then stay ‘down stream’ of them so that they block the on-coming traffic and clear a path for you to cross in their wake. The local, kamikaze scooter riders use a very effective tactic when turning across traffic. They aim their scooter right at the on-coming bikers and go for it. The on-coming riders (fearful of a head-on collision) generally change course and let the maniac turn in front of them (along with other riders using the shielding tactic mentioned above). Legally, a scooter is allowed to carry only two people. In reality, you see families of four or even five cruising around - no problem. Some people have even acquired seats which fit between the driver and the handlebars for a small child to sit on, while others use a towel-like strap to secure a child behind them.

A small child's seat for a scooter.


Traffic lights count down how long the light will stay red or green. This is handy for the majority of motorists (or scooterists?). However for some people, traffic lights are just inconvenient places in the road where cautious drivers stop and get in their way. These people often mount the pavement, ride around all of the people patiently waiting for the light to turn green and then continue through the red light without hesitation or trepidation.

The traffic lights count down the red and green lights.

It is common to see street vendors pushing their mobile stalls down the road, and even through busy intersections! These fearless entrepreneurs must have nerves of steel, because it is terrifying just crossing a road here, never mind while pushing a mobile stall.

This lady is about to push her mobile stall through a busy intersection.

While driving, you can hear loads of hooting. This is not (generally) done in anger or frustration. Instead, it is a friendly warning, letting you know that that person is there. Awareness is everything when navigating these chaotic mosh-pits of exhaust fumes, tight squeezes and sudden lane changes.

Something that never gets old is seeing the variety of cargo that is carried on scooters and bicycles in this city. If you can think of it, these guys will transport it! We have seen gas bottles (sometimes up to 5 at a time!), T.V.s, panes of glass, doors, boxes upon boxes, tables, enormous bags of recycling and fresh produce to name just a few.















Monday 17 March 2014

A month abroad

Today marks four weeks in Vietnam! The last month has absolutely flown by! On the whole we’ve been having a wonderful time, although there have certainly been moments of “oh my word, why did we move half way across the world to a foreign country where we know no one and have nothing?” but they’ve generally been short lived.

We celebrated our one month here by being extremely lazy! We went for drinks with some friends last night and only got back after midnight. We slept in and felt a little under the weather. Vietnam beer is different and makes you feel rubbish in the morning. Mel only had three (or maybe four) beers and Ross only had four or five! So we watched series with the fan blowing on us, then after lunch we thought that we would stop being so useless and went for a walk to the market for supplies. 

Today, we thought we’d share some a few things that we’ve learnt about Vietnam:

The Vietnamese LOVE the world ‘California’. Slap it in as part of your business’s name (California Fitness, California Karaoke), it makes your business sound way more international and legit.

The most popular haircut at the moment for boys is short back and sides, long on top.

It is not rude to spit in the street or blow snot rockets (very visual, sorry!). Audible snorting is another socially acceptable act which is used liberally here.

Recycling!! There is no such thing as recycling or sorting your rubbish here. Plastic bags are handed out willy nilly and plastic bottles and cups are used everywhere! There are people who go through the rubbish and sort it to make money but it seems rather absurd that people don’t just separate it or have recycling plants rather than people having to dig through all of the rubbish which included food waste and toilet paper.

There are no smoking restrictions here in Nam, and people ‘light up’ just about everywhere - restaurants, busses, on your motor bike, anywhere really.

Traffic, traffic, traffic!! More on this to come.

It’s hot here. Like crazy, I don’t really feel like I can walk for longer that 5 minutes hot. This in turn means that you need to drink loads of water. This is easy enough, except you can’t drink the tap water here in Ho Chi Minh. So we end up spending quite a lot of money on bottled drinking water. At our apartment building we have a pretty sweet deal, where we can get a 20L bottle from the office for only 20, 000 VND, or about R10. We were stoked to find out from a local friend on Saturday that this water is in fact no good, and probably straight from the river - delightful! We then decant this into smaller bottles and pop these into the fridge (when it’s cold it tastes much better, especially since our most recent discovery!). We figure that this water has been filtered at least once, so will be safer than the tap water. If not, what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, right?

There is a particular ‘song’ which plays at at least one shop on most streets. Either it is crazy long (like 20 minutes) or is played on repeat by every person who has it on hand.

Communicating with the Vietnamese people is not always easy, and it has become evident that our acting and explaining skills suck! I mean who doesn’t know that hitting your one hand aggressively with the other in a ‘chopping’ action while shouting “I only want HALF” is a no brainer. Apparently it isn’t as obvious as we thought it would be, because it is almost always met by the ‘screwing in a light bulb action’. This is the Vietnamese universal signal for “I don’t know what you are trying to say and will stop talking to you and entertaining your craziness from now on”. It’s best to walk away and try another stall at this point.

Saturday 15 March 2014

Happiness is...




Happiness is new rugby boots and a new yoga mat and blanket!

Unfortunately, Ross has misplaced his rugby boots. We think that he brought them back from touch rugby and put them on the balcony of our hotel room. They were a bit stinky so they were in a packet and we think that the whole packet was thrown away as it was mistaken for rubbish. I don't think we'll ever know what really happened to his boots but either way, he had to get new ones!

Mel has been feeling rather lazy and is need of a good stretch. So on our hunt for boots, we came across a whole lot of yoga mats that were really cheap! Not only did she get a mat but she also managed to snag a yoga blanket! You might be wondering what's so special about this blanket, why not just use a normal blanket? Well this one has non-slip nodules on it and it absorbs sweat and dries quickly. It's also great to take to yoga classes (which we're going to find as soon as we've been paid!) so that you can use one of their mats but it's way more hygienic!

These two little birdies are planning on getting into shape this year (let's see how long it last, haha)!

Thursday 13 March 2014

Surviving Vietnam - Part 3

Once in the country, there are a few things that may help you to acclimatise relatively quickly (and if not, they may help you to accept some things faster).

As we mentioned in the previous edition, beware of some people trying to make a quick buck off you. If you stay in District 1 you will soon understand what we mean. From the moment you set foot outside your bedroom door, prepare to be harassed by hawkers trying to sell you anything from sunglasses to DVD's, books, lighters, hammocks, decorative pop-up cards or even maps (the map is a useful investment, come to think of it!). If you happen to make eye-contact, you automatically become a potential buyer. Should you decide that you do, in fact, desire one of the products on offer, remember this: Even though they may seem cheap, they have been marked up massively and the seller expects you to negotiate a little. The best way to do this is to low-ball him/her straight up. They will know that you are interested, but not stupid. There will be some form of 'poor me', sympathy card pulled out by the seller, but stand your ground. Once you have knocked some of the price off and got him/her working for the sale, walk away. Most times he/she will pursue you and drop the price even more. Getting the price you want isn't easy, and we have been ripped off plenty of times, so expect it to happen, especially in the 'backpacker district'. The turnover of tourists is massive, so the street sellers have become pros at their trade.

You may want to get yourself a sim card for your cell phone, so that you can be in touch, and in case of emergencies (like getting lost - but more on that later). Getting a sim card is pretty easy, and we did see micro and nano sims available too (for iPhone owners). Airtime is sold on almost every street, and smsing is cheap.

Converting certain currencies is easy enough, especially in District 1. US Dollars, Canadian Dollars and the Pound seem to be the most recognised. We wouldn't suggest bringing Rands over and expecting anybody to know what they are though. Throughout District 1 there are shops who will give you Vietnam Dong (VND) for your Dollars, and it'd be wise to shop around a bit for the best rate. Some people will accept dollars in the place of VND, but at a standard exchange rate which is not in your favour.

This post has been pretty negative so far, and in reality you will find that the Vietnamese are (generally) very happy, helpful people. They almost always have a smile on their face, and are happy to point you in the right direction if need be. From our experience, they are very image conscious and most of them are petrified of the sun. They cover up every inch of skin when outdoors. This seems crazy because, while it is cripplingly hot, you frequently see people donning hoodies over their clothes to keep their skin as pale as possible. These hoodies, in turn, often obstruct their view, giving them a kind of tunnel vision - especially when driving their scooters.

Now, one of the most terrifying parts of visiting Ho Chi Minh City has got to be crossing the road! There are a few guidelines to mastering this daredevil-like stunt: Firstly, find a zebra-crossing if possible. Better yet, a traffic light. If there are locals near you, stick to them like glue and follow their lead. With regards to who has right of way on the road, its safest to work on the old 'the biggest goes first by default' rule. In other words, don't step out in front of anything bigger than a scooter. Once you have selected your place of crossing, perch yourself on the edge of the sidewalk facing the on-coming traffic (I use this term loosely, as people ride their scooters on both sides of the road, and both sides could technically possess on-coming traffic!). Then, pick your moment. You want enough day-light between you and the traffic that they see you are in their way, but don't wait too long, otherwise the very small window of opportunity may (well actually, will) close. Take the leap of faith and step into the chaotic swarm of scooters that is Saigon traffic. Do not hesitate, do not hold hands and most importantly, keep your eyes on the in-coming, low-lying, scooter shaped missiles coming at you. The scooter drivers generally slow down and swerve around you, but it's advisable to remain vigilant throughout the road-crossing manoeuvre.

Getting lost is very easy when you first arrive (we managed to turn a 15 minute walk into a 2 and a half hour adventure on our first full day!). Our advice is to get a map as soon as possible - but make sure that it is detailed and shows every street name. Plot each journey before you leave, and check the map frequently to make sure that you are on the right track. Look for easily recognisable land marks (shops are not so good, because quite a few shops have the same name, and franchises have a little store in just about every second street!) and make note of them on your map. If you have a GPS or a maps app on your phone, this could come in very handy.

The food in Vietnam is fantastic, and we strongly recommend that you try the little street venders. Most meals amount to a meat (beef, chicken or prawn), veg (a type of Chinese cabbage-thing, onion and sprouts), a broth (the contents of which we should probably remain naive to) and noodles of some variety. Prices differ from stall to stall, but are usually very reasonable. You will almost definitely be plonked down on the side of the road, onto of a miniature plastic chair and around a table too low to fit your knees under. But it is FANTASTIC!! The beers are usually in stock, cold and cheap, so be sure to ask. Another delicious option is the baguette sandwiches available at similar street vendors. If you have a sensitive stomach, or don't like fatty meat, ask for vegetarian.

Another thing about this city, which is rather different to little old Howick, is the pollution. With so many scooters clogging the roads, there are (obviously) quite a lot of exhaust fumes floating around. For this reason, the majority of the riders wear masks to cover their mouths and noses to help minimise inhalation. It is also common to see somebody walk out of their building and throw some rubbish (sometimes in packets, sometimes not) into the gutter. You would assume that the streets would be filthy and look like a rubbish dump, but they don't. There are people whose job it is to wheel big, metal skips down the road and pick up any litter. They sort through the rubbish afterwards, finding objects to recycle. It would make sense for people to sort their own recyclables before throwing stuff away, but that doesn't seem to happen here.

Ho Chi Minh is a mishmash of oxymorons, and it is interesting to observe the (sometimes absurd) way that wealth and poverty mingle without even batting an eyelid. This is part of what makes this such a fascinating city to visit, and you can only truly appreciate it once you have experienced it for yourself.

Monday 10 March 2014

Our neighbourhood

We went for a walk to the market and thought that we would snap some pics along the way.


A cute baby (he has nothing on Mila though!)

You're going the wrong way!!

The butchery, we probably won't be buying too much meat from here...




Street market, rush hour style...

I'll just sit in the middle of the road...



Oxygenated water to keep the fishies fresh

Fish, fish and ... dried fish? (Maybe?)

Eggs anybody?

One of many fruit and veg 'stands'

Anyone for some of this stuff? (Look closely...)

Yip, thats a snake.

Street-side roast chickens, head-and-all

Vietnamese bakkie